Be careful to measure from the crease rather than the edge of the panel and mark the location for the faucet, the shower valve, and the shower arm. There is a crease for that fold molded into the panel when transferring the measurement from the back corner to the fixture centers. The side panels have a folding flap that will wrap around the corner and onto the back wall to create a watertight joint. You should aim to get precise measurements from the back wall and the tub's top edge to the center of the fixtures, then transfer those measurements to the side panel and mark the fixture locations. Start by measuring the wall location of the fittings. Scissors, a sharp utility knife, or a pair of snips are all great options for cutting the panel to size, but snips give more leverage, making the process easier. Draw and cut on a line making sure it's parallel to the opposite edge when cutting the panels. The best way to ensure you trim it to the right size is by measuring and marking the dimensions. The panels come oversized and must be trimmed to the correct width and height. The video shows that the two screws holding the escutcheon, or trim plate, have been taken off before finally unscrewing the shower head and arm. The shower valve is removed by loosening the set screw on the underside of the handle, then removing the screws that hold the adjusting ring in place and pulling it free next. You'll want to use a strap wrench to prevent damage to the finish. The first thing we'll want to do is remove the plumbing fixtures for the spout. ![]() This way, it can acclimate to temperature and humidity. It's important to remember that you'll want to bring this into the same room you plan to install it in at least 24 hours in advance. The kit has three panels: one for the back, one for each end, and two trim strips. Shower wall panel installation is easy! Let me show you how to use a shower surround kit.
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